A week in Melbourne, Australia- 5/4- 5/10/2024

Day 3-Retracing our steps-5/6/2024

The tour is over now and we are retracing our steps, going back to a few places that we saw at a glance, and slowing down, trying to soaking in the details we did not get to see during the guided walk.

We are now in the Collins Precinct, and straight ahead is Saint Paul Cathedral.  We will come back later to visit as it is closed right now.

Caffe E. Torta means “Coffee and Cake” in Italian shop is located on Little Collins street and just at the entrance of the Block Arcade. The shop often described as a place that makes you feel like you’re “in Europe without leaving Melbourne".

We are now walking in the famous main arcade with soaring arched glass ceiling that lets in soft, natural light, giving the passage a bright and airy feel while still being sheltered from the weather. The iron framework and detailing were inspired by the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan, which is why the arcade feels so European in character.

We are now in the Block Court which is connected directly off Collins Street, forming part of the Block Arcade complex.

Inside, there’s a stunning soaring glass dome ceiling that fills the space with light. The dome creates a sense of openness and elegance, making it feel almost like stepping into a miniature theatre foyer.  The Block Court once housed Bijou Theatre nearby (long since gone), and the dome area has always been tied to Melbourne’s culture of mixing retail, leisure, and entertainment. Today it’s more of a shopping atrium, but the glass dome and proportions still give it that dramatic, theatrical quality.

The dome is one of the most striking features of Block Court,  it rises above the central space like a great circular skylight, made of framed glass panels that allow daylight to pour in. The structure combines both practicality and beauty: during the day it floods the arcade with natural light, while at night it’s often softly illuminated, giving the space a grand, theatrical atmosphere.  It is often used for art installations, seasonal decorations, or promotional displays, since anything suspended beneath it becomes the centerpiece of the space.

When we were there, the dome was transformed into a scene straight out of cinema marketing magic: A giant flying eagle sculpture was suspended under the dome, wings spread as though soaring through the air.

Beneath the dome, they hung a long vertical banner/poster for “Kingdom of the Planet of the Apes”, advertising its upcoming May 9, 2024 premiere. Film studios often choose spots like this because the dome height gives enough vertical space to create a striking, immersive display that passersby can’t miss. The soaring height, the circular frame, and the natural light filtering through the glass all combine to make the dome feel like a miniature theatre ceiling, every installation beneath it feels staged and larger than life. That’s why visitors often remember these displays years later.

We are now at the State Library of Victoria.  Founded in 1854, it is Australia’s oldest public library and one of the first free public libraries in the world. he library was established with the idea that knowledge should be available to everyone, regardless of wealth or status, a very forward-thinking concept at the time.

Out front, on the lawn, stands the statue of Sir Redmond Barry (1813–1880). Barry was a Supreme Court judge, but also the library’s founder and a strong advocate for education and culture in Melbourne. He’s remembered as a complicated figure: he played a key role in establishing the library and Melbourne University, but he is also known for sentencing Ned Kelly, the infamous bushranger, to death. The statue shows him standing in judicial robes, a commanding presence looking over the steps to the library he helped create.

The State Library Victoria was hosting an exhibition dedicated to Rennie Ellis (1940–2003), one of Australia’s most iconic social photographers.  The long red banners draped across the library’s front with the words “Melbourne Out Loud” were part of the exhibition design, making a bold statement to invite people inside. They really stood out against the neoclassical stone façade.

The first thing you see when you walked in the Library is The Quad which provide access to the library's conference center. The contemporary, digitally enabled space is also the place to study or do some research using the Library's public PCs or your own device. With a bustling and energetic campus atmosphere, the space caters to informal individual or collaborative work.

We are now going upstairs and on our way we see these 2 beautiful Stained glass windows that were installed in the early 20th century and are rich in symbolism. They celebrate knowledge, wisdom, and the arts, fitting themes for a great public library. The designs reflect the Victorian era’s love for grandeur and learning.

Big stairs going up and here you can see the first floor below.

As we are going up we looked up and saw Murals on the Stairway Walls.

The painted murals were created in the 1920s–30s as part of the library’s embellishments. They depict scenes of learning, culture, and sometimes historical references tied to Melbourne and Victoria. This mural reflects the immense effort of Australian soldiers during World War I, especially on the European front. The church in the backdrop suggests a European setting, probably France or Belgium, where Australians fought in towns devastated by war. The mural emphasizes both the hardship and sacrifice of moving heavy guns through war-torn landscapes.

Australian Light Horse regiments with these mounted soldiers became iconic for their role in the Boer War (1899–1902) and later in World War I, particularly the famous charge at Beersheba in 1917. The mural captures the spirit of mounted troops riding across difficult terrain.

We are now entering the famous La Trope Reading Room.

We are now in La Trobe Reading Room, first opened in 1913, often called the Domed Reading Room, located on the 2nd floor and is the heart of the State Library Victoria. The space is famous for its octagonal design, with soaring white columns, wooden desks arranged in a radial pattern, and a majestic glass-and-steel dome overhead, one of the largest of its kind in the world when it was built.

 The atmosphere is quiet and studious, but also awe-inspiring, with light filtering through the dome onto the polished wood floors. Originally, readers sat at the long wooden tables to study with books and manuscripts; today, it blends history and modernity, with people using both laptops and library collections.

If you look at the white wall, you will see a bunch books on displayed and they are not just random decorations.  They are part of carefully curated exhibitions and displays designed to showcase highlights from the library’s enormous collection of more than 2 million books and hundreds of thousands of rare items. Many of these books are rare, fragile, or historically significant volumes, things like early colonial publications, illustrated works, or first editions that normally wouldn’t be accessible on the open shelves. The wall displays are arranged in a way that highlights the history of printing, literature, and ideas. Some sections focus on Australian history and culture, while others spotlight international treasures. They’re not for borrowing or casual reading, they function more like a museum exhibit. The idea is to inspire visitors by showing the breadth and depth of the library’s collection while preserving the fragile originals behind protective glass or in secure cases.

  When it first opened in 1913, the dome was the largest of its kind in the world,  an octagonal structure rising 115 ft. high and 111 ft. across, flooding the space with natural light. But over the decades, the dome began to deteriorate. By the 1950s, water leaks and structural concerns became so bad that the library sealed the dome off and covered the original skylights with a false ceiling. For nearly half a century, visitors never experienced the reading room as it was intended. The major turning point came with the library’s $200 million redevelopment project (1990–2004) and when it reopened in 2003, the dome was celebrated as a triumph of heritage conservation. Today, it’s the library’s crown jewel, admired both for its breathtaking beauty and as a symbol of Melbourne’s commitment to preserving culture while adapting it for modern use.

St Paul's cathedral sits dramatically opposite Flinders Street Station, creating one of Melbourne’s most recognizable cityscapes. Designed by the English architect William Butterfield, a leading figure in the Gothic Revival movement, the cathedral was built between 1880 and 1891. The structure is made of Waurn Ponds limestone and Bendigo sandstone, giving it its warm yellow-brown tone, contrasted with dark bands of bluestone. Its famous spires weren’t completed until 1931, making them a later addition to Butterfield’s design. The central spire reaches 96 meters, making it the second-tallest Anglican church spire in the world when finished.

St Paul’s remains the cathedral church of the Anglican Diocese of Melbourne and the seat of the Archbishop of Melbourne.

Standing inside, you feel the contrast between the bustling modern city just outside and the timeless calm of the Gothic interior , the cathedral really feels like a sacred retreat in the heart of Melbourne. Along the nave, you see a series of pointed arches supported by alternating black and white marble columns.  Above the arches, the clerestory is filled with stained glass windows.

The stained glass windows tell biblical stories and scenes from Christ’s life, while others show saints, angels, and symbols of faith.  During the day, colored light floods through, giving the stone interior a warm, almost otherworldly glow.

Underfoot, the cathedral has intricate mosaic tile floors, many featuring crosses, floral motifs, and geometric patterns.

The nave feels long and soaring, framed by the alternating black and white marble columns that support a series of pointed Gothic arches. Above these arches runs the clerestory level, where rows of stained glass windows line both sides.

View of the main altar where stands a large golden panel, known as a reredos,  a richly decorated screen designed to highlight the altar as the most sacred space. It is gilded in gold leaf, so it catches the light from both candles and the stained glass above, giving it a glowing, heavenly presence. At the very top of the screen is a prominent crucifix, with Jesus Christ on the cross. This is the spiritual center of the whole cathedral, the crucifixion as the ultimate symbol of sacrifice, redemption, and hope.

As soon as we walked out of St. Paul's Cathedral you get a view of Flinders Street Station and on the left you can also see the  Arts Centre Melbourne with the Spire that looks like the Eiffel tower.  It is a bit later and the sun is setting in the horizon.

We are now on Federation Square, one of Melbourne’s most iconic public spaces.  It is a modern cultural and civic hub right across from Flinders Street Station and St Paul’s Cathedral. Opened in 2002, the square was built to mark Australia’s Centenary of Federation (1901), when the country’s six colonies united to form the Commonwealth of Australia.

The square is lined with rows of flags often displayed.

The heart of the square is its large open plaza, paved in patterned sandstone.  It’s a lively place where people meet, relax, or watch public screenings (for example, sports finals or New Year’s Eve events).

The square is also the home of ACMI (Australian Centre for the Moving Image), dedicated to film, TV, and digital culture.

We are now on Princes Bridge over looking at the Yarra river.  The view is different as the sun is setting in the horizon.

From Princes Bridge, you get one of the best views in Melbourne at sunset. The Yarra River stretches beneath us, reflecting the soft ripples of orange and gold from the sky. The Evan Walker Bridge arches gracefully across the water, surrounded by the city’s tall buildings with their glass façades catching the last rays of the sun. The whole scene feels alive yet calm, the river, the skyline, and the sunset blending into a perfect moment of Melbourne’s charm.

Stepping down the stairs from Princes Bridge to get to the Southbank Promenade.

We are now walking along Southbank Promenade, the riverside walkway that runs beside the Yarra River. It stretches from Princes Bridge all the way past the Evan Walker Bridge and further along, lined with cafés, restaurants, and open spaces. In the evening, especially at sunset, it can feel calm and spacious, with the city’s reflections shimmering on the water and fewer crowds compared to the daytime rush.

Here, we are looking back at the Princes bridge.  We stood there before walking over the Southbank Promenade.

People seating on benches to watch the sun setting and also watching the other side of the river bank.

Across the river we see the floating Arbory Afloat restaurant and bar that sits right on the Yarra, and behind it rise some of Melbourne’s tall skyscrapers. The building with the clock you see is Flinders Street Station, one of Melbourne’s most iconic landmarks. Its historic façade and large dome stand in striking contrast to the modern towers nearby, giving you that classic blend of old and new that defines the city’s skyline.

We are continuing our walk on the Southbank Promenade and on the right is “Ophelia” sculpture by Deborah Halpern, one of Melbourne’s most beloved public artworks.

Standing brightly along Southbank, it’s a whimsical figure with bold patterns, two mismatched eyes, and vibrant colors splashed across its body. The playful design feels almost like a mosaic come to life, watching over the river walk with a sense of fun and creativity. It has become a bit of a symbol of Melbourne’s artistic spirit, perfectly at home along the Yarra with the city skyline as its backdrop.

We are now getting closer to the  Evan Walker Bridge, a pedestrian bridge built in 1992, and named after Professor Evan Walker,

Walking across the Evan Walker Bridge is one of the most atmospheric experiences in Melbourne, especially at sunset. The footbridge arcs gracefully over the Yarra, connecting Southbank with Flinders Street Station and Federation Square, and seeing them from a slightly different angle made them feel even more striking. Beneath the bridge sits a floating restaurant and bar, its lights starting to flicker on as the evening settles in.

As we walked, we felt suspended between the city skyline and the river below, the skyscrapers rising tall on one side, and the golden glow of the water stretching out beneath us

 From the end of the Evan Walker Bridge, the view opens wide and feels almost cinematic. To your right, the graceful arches of Princes Bridge frame the river, its stonework glowing softly in the fading light. To the left, Arbory Afloat stretches out over the water, lively yet calm against the evening sky. The Yarra below reflects it all, the orange and pink hues near the horizon, the silhouettes of buildings, and the shimmer of lights just beginning to appear. Standing there, it feels like the whole city is pausing with you to admire the sunset..

We are now off the bridge and walking toward the Arbory Afloat restaurant.

We are now at the Arbory, a perfect way to end your riverside walk.  The long wooden deck stretches right along the Yarra, with tables shaded by umbrellas and a relaxed hum of conversation all around.

From our spot at Arbory, the view stretches along the river with the long wooden bar lined with chairs facing outward. Just beyond, the Yarra flows quietly, and above it, trees with golden leaves arch gracefully over the water, catching the last light of the evening. Across the river, the base of the high-rise buildings peeks through.  It’s a mix of nature and city, golden leaves brushing the river in front of us, and the modern skyline rising just beyond, giving that uniquely Melbourne balance of calm and energy.

Cheers!  What a great spot to relax and enjoy the magnificent views from our spot.

Night is now falling and the space looks really different with all the lights across the river.

High rise buildings all lit up at night.

From our spot, we looked down and saw Viva Mexico, a floating bar and restaurant, right on the river.

We are now leaving the Arbory float and along the way they have these barrels with open flames to lit up the place.

The Arbory is a really nice place to hangout with stunning views of the river and the surroundings.

NEXT... Queen Victoria Market