6 days in Perth, Australia- 5/22- 5/27/2024

Day 2-Freemantle-5/23/2024

The train ride from Perth Station (near Barrack Street) to Fremantle was a lovely and easy journey which took about 25 to 30 minutes on the Fremantle Line. The route runs west along the Swan River, passing through leafy suburbs like Subiaco, Cottesloe, and Mosman Park, with glimpses of parks and even the ocean as you get closer to the coast.

When you arrived in Fremantle (or “Freo,” as locals affectionately call it) feels immediately different from central Perth, more relaxed, and very low key.

Founded in 1829, the same year as Perth, Fremantle was the original port settlement of the Swan River Colony and remains the main harbor for Western Australia. The town was named after Captain Charles Fremantle, who claimed the west coast for Britain.

 Fremantle grew during the gold rush of the 1890s, and many of its grand limestone buildings from that era still stand today, beautifully preserved.

We are now at the Fremantle Town House. Built in 1887, during a time of growing prosperity in Western Australia, and officially opened the following year to coincide with Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee.  The Town Hall quickly became the civic heart of Fremantle, hosting public meetings, concerts, and community celebrations. It even served as a wartime operations center during World War II.

The design came from architects Grainger and D’Ebro, who gave the building its distinctive Victorian Free Classical style, with the arched windows, and the tall clock tower that rises proudly over the intersection of High Street and William Street.  Over the decades, the building fell into some disrepair, but a major restoration project completed in 2017 returned it to its original glory. Today, it stands not just as a symbol of Fremantle’s colonial past but also of its community spirit,  still used for cultural events and official ceremonies..

St John's Anglican Church also known as St John the Evangelist Church is an Anglican church in Fremantle.  It is one of Fremantle’s oldest and most cherished churches.

The current St John’s Church was built between 1878 and 1882, replacing an earlier, smaller church that once stood nearby. It was designed in the Gothic Revival style by architect William Smith, using the pale local limestone that gives many of Fremantle’s heritage buildings their warm, golden tone. The tall pointed windows, arched doorways, and slender spire were modeled after English parish churches of the Victorian era, yet it feels uniquely Australian in the way it sits open to the light and sea breeze, a peaceful landmark that has watched over the town for more than a century.

St John’s stands side by side with the Town Hall, together forming the historic heart of Fremantle. The two buildings tell a story, one of civic life and one of faith ,  side by side in a town that grew from a windswept port into a thriving, artistic community.

We arrived at one of Fremantle’s most iconic and lively spots, the Fishing Boat Harbor, where the smell of the sea mingles with the scent of fish and chips, and the sound of gulls fills the air.

The harbor has been at the heart of Fremantle’s maritime life since the early 1900s, when Italian and Portuguese fishermen began mooring their boats here. It grew rapidly after the construction of the Mews Road jetty in 1919, becoming home to Western Australia’s thriving rock lobster (crayfishing) industry. For decades, this was a working harbor, busy, noisy, and full of character.

Right as you enter, there is the giant red heart with the “Freo” sign,  a playful, modern landmark and popular photo spot that captures the town’s laid-back, creative spirit. The heart symbolizes the warmth and pride locals feel for their city; Freo isn’t just a place, it’s a way of life,  relaxed, salty, and welcoming.

In the 1980s, the area was transformed to welcome visitors while keeping its fishing heritage alive. Today, it’s a blend of working port and leisure precinct, lined with seafood restaurants, cafés, breweries, and boardwalks overlooking the boats.

We are walking through the Fishermen’s Monument area at the Fremantle Fishing Boat Harbor, a place created to honor the generations of fishermen who built Fremantle’s maritime heritage.

 The sculptures of a man carrying a basket on his shoulder and another lifting one from the ground are part of the “To the Fishermen” memorial, unveiled in 2002. It was created by artist Giovanni Iemma, himself a descendant of Italian fishing families who helped shape the industry here. The bronze figures capture a timeless moment of hard work and cooperation, men unloading their daily catch, backs bent, faces turned to the sea breeze.

The series of vertical stone and metal columns lining the small wooden bridge adds to the memorial. Each column is engraved with names of fishermen, many of Italian, Portuguese, and Croatian heritage, who worked, lived, and sometimes lost their lives at sea. The inscription “To the Fishermen” beneath them is both a dedication and a quiet prayer, recognizing the courage, labor, and sacrifices of those who made Fremantle’s fishing fleet famous around the world.

This part of the harbor isn’t just a scenic walkway,  it’s a living story of migration, family, and the sea.

The waters you’re looking at are part of the Fremantle Fishing Boat Harbor, which opens directly into the Indian Ocean through a protected channel at the southern end of Fremantle. The harbor itself was officially established in 1919, when a small jetty and breakwater were built to serve the growing number of fishing boats that operated off the Western Australian coast. 

 These waters became home to generations of fishermen, many from Italian, Portuguese, and Croatian families who arrived in the early 20th century. They helped turn Fremantle into the center of Western Australia’s commercial fishing industry, especially known for Western Rock Lobster (crayfish), one of the region’s most valuable exports.

Many of the boats you see moored today are still active members of this long tradition. Some are modern, sleek fishing vessels equipped with the latest gear; others are older wooden boats lovingly maintained by families who have fished these waters for decades. Each one carries its own history,  names painted proudly on the hulls, stories passed down from father to son, generation after generation.

The harbor remains a working port, even as it has grown into a popular destination for visitors. Behind the restaurants and boardwalks, you’ll still find slipways, fuel docks, and seafood processing sheds where the day’s catch comes in. It’s a rare place where heritage and livelihood meet, a reminder that Fremantle’s heart has always belonged to the sea.

This such a classic Fremantle Fishing Boat Harbor moment where the gulls strutting about as if they own the place, swooping in for crumbs and perching boldly on restaurant tables while diners laugh and wave them away.

The restaurants around this area are among the most beloved in Fremantle. The two most famous are Cicerello’s and Kailis Fish Market Café, both institutions in Western Australia. Together, these restaurants capture the spirit of Fremantle, relaxed, family-run, and tied to the rhythms of the sea.

 The octopus sculpture is part of the harbor’s playful public art, celebrating Fremantle’s deep connection to the sea and its marine life. It’s a nod to the fishing traditions that still thrive here and a reminder that beneath the calm waters lies a world full of life and stories.

This big building is part of the Harborside complex, a waterfront entertainment and dining hub located right within Fremantle Fishing Boat Harbor.  This building houses a mix of restaurants, bars, and event spaces, often buzzing with people, especially on weekends. It’s designed to reflect the port’s industrial maritime heritage, which is why it has that bold, corrugated exterior in green and blue tones, reminiscent of old fishing sheds and boat workshops that once filled the docks.

As the sun began to descend over the harbor, the light turned golden and soft. The bright yellow sun hovered low on the horizon, casting shimmering reflections across the water.

The fishing boats, once vivid in daylight, now stood in gentle silhouettes against the glowing sky, their masts and rigging etched in shadow. A quiet calm settled over the harbor, the chatter from the restaurants faded to a hum, and even the seagulls seemed to pause, bathed in the last light of day.

We are now walking along the rocky breakwater that separates Fremantle Fishing Boat Harbor from Bathers Beach,  a narrow, elevated walkway built with large limestone boulders that protect the harbor from strong ocean swells.

This pathway gives you a wonderful view of both sides: on one side, the calm, sheltered waters of the harbor dotted with fishing boats, on the other, the open expanse of the Indian Ocean.

This area is the calm sheltered water of the harbor.

This is the South Mole breakwater, which helps form and protect the Fremantle Fishing Boat Harbor. The calmness of the water inside the harbor is exactly the purpose of that breakwater, it creates a safe, sheltered mooring area from the Indian Ocean swells.

 The harbor and its breakwaters were largely built in stages starting in the 1920s to provide a secure anchorage for the fishing fleet, many of whom were (and still are) descended from Italian families from towns like Molfetta and Capo d'Orlando.

And on the other side of the rocky breakwater you see the open expanse of the Indian Ocean, where the waves crash softly against the rocks. The stones themselves are a signature of Fremantle’s coast, pale, rugged, and weathered by salt and wind.

Standing on the breakwater provides a truly unique perspective. On one side, you have the calm, contained waters of the harbor, and on the other, you are treated to the vast expanse of the Indian Ocean, perfect for capturing those stunning reflections as the sun dips below the horizon.

Many people in the afternoon come to watch the sun set in the horizon.

From there we walked to Bathers beach nestled beside the breakwater and the Fishing Boat Harbor.

Bathers Beach is a fantastic spot, it's known for being Australia's first licensed beach, meaning you can legally enjoy a drink on the sand from a nearby vendor.

Bathers Beach House is the only absolute beachfront restaurant and bar in Western Australia, so you have the best seat in the house. Looking through the tables and colorful umbrellas at the beach, we are enjoying a quintessential Fremantle experience. The atmosphere there is always relaxed, especially as the last of the sunset glow fades.

We are in the Manjarree/Bathers Beach which is considered a key public site where First Nations culture, colonial history and contemporary arts all intersect. The name "Manjaree" (sometimes spelled Manjarree) is the Whadjuk Nyoongar name for the area around Bathers Beach and Arthur Head (the limestone hill where the Round House sits).  It is a self-guided or guided walking trail that features a series of interpretive signs along Bathers Beach and the Arthur Head precinct.

The beach is a perfect area to witness a spectacular West Australian sunset. The "golden sand" of Bathers Beach, combined with the "beautiful yellow light" from the setting sun over the Indian Ocean, is a truly magical scene.

Those colors are what Western Australia is famous for!

The beach was totally deserted except for the seagulls that certainly a fixture of any Australian beach experience, especially around a working port like Fremantle.

Capturing them in flight against that beautiful yellow sunset.

A lot of people sat on the wooden deck, sipping a drink, and watching the sunset.

We met up with David, who we met during our 5 day trip to Tasmania

We ordered a few snacks and beer and then we will go to dinner with Lisa.

Dinner at Bread in Common

David recommended Bread in Common, one of Fremantle's most acclaimed and unique dining experiences. It's far more than just a restaurant, it's an institution built around a simple, yet powerful, philosophy: great food, great company, and the joy of sharing.

The restaurant is housed in a faithfully restored heritage-listed pharmaceutical warehouse originally built in 1898. It features soaring, vaulted ceilings, original red brick walls, and a large, exposed communal dining area with long tables.

The interior design, with its dangling bare light bulbs, is often described as rustic, industrial, and loft-like, giving it a cool, slightly dramatic atmosphere.

David really picked a really cool restaurant! 

Bread in Common's cuisine is driven by a commitment to seasonal and local produce, and the menu is designed entirely for sharing (or eating "in common").

Starting the meal with these two beautiful dishes.

Cured salmon, radish, dill, drizzled with olive oil and a citrus juice.

Roasted crispy belly, fermented Kohlrabi, green onion, soy sauce.

Pan seared catch of the day fish with assorted vegetables, herb oil, and basil seed.

Roasted duck breast.

Lamb Ribs. mint, black garlic, sherry, lime. Often cited as a must-try, these are known for being incredibly tender, falling off the bone.

Delicious Duck Fat roasted crispy potatoes with homemade ketchup.

We were told that we simply cannot dine here without experiencing their namesake. Their acclaimed, artisanal, organic, wood-fired bread is baked daily on-site and is served warm with house-churned butter or various spreads. The whole concept of the restaurant is built around this central product.

Lisa, David, Hoa, and I, we enjoyed a truly phenomenal feast at Bread in Common, capping off a beautiful day in Fremantle. The selection, including the signature wood-fired bread, tender lamb ribs, rich roasted duck breast and pork belly, and light, refreshing cured salmon with radish and kohlrabi, was a true indulgence. After spending five wonderful days together in Tasmania, this exceptional shared meal provided a perfect, delicious opportunity to reconnect and celebrate our shared journey.

NEXT... Day 3-Rottness Island