A week in Cambodia -11/18/2023-11/24/2023

Siam Reap-11/22/2023

Day 5- Banteay Srei Temple

Banteay Srei (Citadel of woman) was built in 10th century and is dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. It is renowned for its exceptional beauty, intricate carvings, fine workmanship and the exceptional quality of its carvings in pink sandstone which a material unique to this region. 

Banteay Srei is one of the few temples around Angkor to be commissioned not by a king but by a Brahman (member of the highest Hindu caste).

Like all other temples in the area, Banteay Srei was left unattended and gradually covered by the jungle since the decline of the Khmer empire from the early 14th century until it was rediscovered in  1914.

The temple was the subject of a celebrated case of art theft when André Malraux, the famous French writer who stole four devatas in 1923 (he was soon arrested, and the figures were returned). The incident stimulated interest in the site and the first restoration work in the 1930s by the original constructing methods and architectural elements had helped to bring back the beauty of the temple somewhat to its origin, giving visitors the chance to admire one of the greatest artwork of Cambodia.

The temple is set amongst the charming village and farmlands just below the Kulen Mountain range.

The temple is square and has entrances at the east and west. We went through the east and pass through the village of Phoum Pradak.

Heading to the temple

A pediment along the way.

Indra riding Airavata carved on the pediment of the gopura located at the entrance.

Processional walkway leading to the main Eastern entrance.

The walkway was lined with carved sandstone pillars. On the right, we are now entering the Eastern gateway.

Banteay Srei temple is the only one that has the most use of red sandstone. The sandstone used to build the temple was taken from mountains in the area near by.

This is a kind of hard stone but can be easily chiseled like wood, allowing artists to manifestly display their imagination and skills. The light red color of the stone also adds more charm to the temple.

The intricate carvings showcase a level of artistry that was unprecedented in Khmer architecture. These carvings depict scenes from Hindu mythology, epics, and daily life, offering valuable insights into the cultural and religious life of the period.

Ballustrated window.

Banteay Srei is surrounded by a moat.

Behind the moat is the main shrine.

Part of the moat.

Lintels containing very finely carves ornamentations.

Among them are a depiction of Viradha who abducts Sita, a scene from the Indian epic Ramayana. Others show Indra riding the three headed elephant Airavata, Varuna, the God of the oceans, Vishnu, Shiva, Uma and Nandi, the sacred bull.

The carvings are incredible intricate and beautiful.

The inner sanctuary contains three prasats set on a platform of about 3 ft. high. A mandapa (a pillared hall) chamber precedes the central tower. The Banteay Srei is the first temple where a mandapa chamber was added to the sanctuary.

Monkey guardians statues in front of the main sanctuary.

The main shrine and auxiliary structures are surrounded by three concentric square enclosure walls. Throughout the complex, the sandstone surfaces are intricately carved with some of the finest, most elaborate ornamentation to survive from the Khmer era.

The sanctuary is entered from the east by a doorway only 3 ft. in height

The central tower measures almost 33 ft. high, the others are slightly shorter. All three towers are decorated with dvarapala (door guardian) and devata (god) images and contains small sanctuary chambers.

South wall of the mantapa

The three sanctuary towers are arranged in a north-south line, the southern and central Prasats were dedicated to Shiva, the northern tower to Vishnu. The central one is preceded by a Mandapa hall, connected with it by a corridor called Antarala. Two corner buildings in the inner enclosure are libraries. These buildings and the Gopurams of this first enclosure are the jewels of Khmer art mentioned above, decorated with the finest and most detailed examples of bas-reliefs you can find in Cambodia or anywhere else.

These buildings and the Gopurams of this first enclosure are the jewels of Khmer art mentioned above, decorated with the finest and most detailed examples of bas-reliefs you can find in Cambodia or anywhere else.

Banteay Srei carvings are the best preserved examples of Angkorian relief art, almost unchanged as scarcely anything is weathered.

Pediment details.

We are now done with the visit and we are leaving the area.

The outer wall of Banteay Srei.

Next..Banteay Samre Temple