A week in Cambodia -11/18/2023-11/24/2023

Phnom Penh -11/18/2023

Choeung Ek Genocidal Center (Killing Field)

Situated in Dangkao, just 15 kilometers south of Phnom Penh, the Choeung Ek Genocidal center is a former orchard and Chinese cemetery that was used as a Killing Field between 1975 and 1979 by the Khmer Rouge in perpetrating the Cambodian genocide. The bodies of 8,895 victims were exhumed from the site after the fall of the Khmer Rouge, who executed people with pickaxes to conserve bullets before being buried in mass graves.

The rise to power of the Khmer Rouge, a radical communist movement led by the dictator Pol Pot that was formed in 1960s amid the turmoil of the Vietnam War, the Khmer Rouge seized control of Cambodia in April 1975 after a protracted civil war. Upon taking power, Pol Pot and his cadres immediately set about trying to remake Cambodia into a classless agrarian society. They forcibly evacuated cities, abolished money and private property, and required all Cambodians to become laborers on massive collective farms. Those deemed to be "enemies" of the revolution are intellectuals, religious leaders, ethnic minorities, and anyone suspected of political dissent were arrested and imprisoned.

Dangkao area may appear at first glance to be a peaceful orchard but this unassuming plot of land holds a dark and harrowing history. It is the most notorious of the "killing fields" and it is estimated that over 17,000 men, women and children were killed and buried at the Choeung Ek Killing Fields.

 

In the center of the site stands a 17-tiered Buddhist stupa that displays more than 8,000 skulls exhumed from the graves.

 

 

More than 8000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, are visible behind the clear glass panels of the Memorial Stupa, which was erected in 1988.

 

It is a chilling sight to see so many skulls.

 

Through the brief yet barbaric actions of the communist Khmer Rouge regime from 1975-1979, Cambodia was devastated. It's estimated around 1.7 million (or 21 per cent of the population) lost their lives during their genocidal four-year reign of mass torture, starvation, and murder.

 

This is where it all started at the Truck Stop. Victims to be exterminated from Tual Sleng prison (S-21) and other places in the country are transported here to be executed.

Two or three trucks travelled every month with each holding around 20 prisoners who would make their final journey to the Killing Field.

 

Many were transported directly from the city's schoolhouse Tuol Sleng S21 prison. A fatal blow to the head or slit throat was the preferred method of execution, so that precious bullets could be preserved for more 'meaningful' purposes.

 

When they cannot executed all the prisoners in one day they put them in this barrack to be executed the next day.  The wall was built with 2 layers of flat wood to darken the room and to prevent prisoners to seeing each other.  The barrack was dismantled in 1979.

 

A rest area.

 

The executioner's working office

 

It was the place where executioners stationed and worked permanently at Choeung Ek,  The office as well as the killing field were equipped with electric power which enable them to conduct executions.

As bullets were deemed too expensive, the victims were clubbed to death and chemical substances were scattered over their bodies to ensure no one remained alive.

 

Mass grave of 450 people.

 

Executioners slit prisoners‘ throats and dumped their bodies into mass graves, the largest of which held 450 corpses.

 

When Vietnamese troops toppled the Khmer Rouge and uncovered Choeung Ek in 1979, they found a grisly sight with over 8,000 skulls scattered on the surface and more than 100 mass graves up to 16 ft. deep

 

Visitors walking around in silence and listening to the audio tour.

 

This was a former Chinese grave before 1975.

 

Remains of the old Chinese cemetery.

 

Lake at Cheong Ek site.

 

The lake is very serene and beautiful.

 

Rice filed surrounding Cheong EK

 

Dirt road around the lake.

 

The area is really peaceful now.

 

Continuing our walk.

 

The site is well managed with lots of signs and information so it was really easy to follow with the audio guide.

 

One of the many dikes that was built in 2000 to be used as a conservation facility to prevent destruction of excavated mass graves from flood.      

 

 

Pieces of bones remaining after excavation in 1980

 

 

Pieces of bones remaining after excavation in 1980 on display in a glass box

 

Teeth and femur bones.

 

Mass grave of 166 victims without heads.

 

Chilling to think what went on at this place.

 

Clothes of the victims after excavation in 1980 on display in a glass box

 

The Killing Tree.

Executioners would smash babies’ heads against this tree before throwing them into an adjacent mass grave. This was often done right in front of the mothers. This was a politically strategy to prevent the children from growing up to take revenge against the Khmer Rouge. Today, this tree is covered with bracelets in remembrance of all of the children who were killed here.

Next to the Killing tree is the Mass Grave of more than 100 victims that were children and women.

 

 In some cases the children and infants of adult victims were killed by having their heads bashed against tree trunk, and then were thrown into the pits alongside their parents.

 

 

This tree that was used as a tool to hang a loud speaker to avoid hearing the victims' scream while they were executed.

 

This is the end of the visit of the center.

 

We passed by a garden with a statue of a mother holding an infant.

 

Under the statue is a plaque to remind never to forget the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge.

 

 

The Killing Fields were first discovered in 1979 by a Vietnamese journalist who was sent to investigate reports of mass graves in the area. The Khmer Rouge had used Choeung Ek as a dumping ground for their victims since 1975, but it was not until 1980 that it was officially recognized as a killing field by the Cambodian government. In 1985, a memorial stupa was erected at the site to commemorate those who had been killed there and to serve as a reminder to future generations about what happened during this dark period in Cambodia’s history. 

The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek are an important part of Cambodian history that should never be forgotten. This tragic event serves as a reminder that genocide can happen anywhere if we do not take steps to prevent it from occurring again in our lifetime. It is our duty to remember those who perished here so that we may strive towards preventing such atrocities from ever happening again in any part of the world

 

Next...Tuol Sleng Prison Museum

 

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