6 days in Malaysia- 6/16- 6/21/2024

Day  4-arrival in Penang-6/18/2024

This morning we set out early, boarding the bus to George Town for a journey that lasted a little over five hours. The long ride felt like a transition. leaving the fast pace of Kuala Lumpur behind and gradually moving toward the slower, more historic rhythm of Penang. Through the windows, the scenery shifted from dense city views to stretches of highway, greenery, and smaller towns, giving a quiet sense of how diverse Malaysia feels beyond its capital.

Through the windows, the scenery shifted from dense city views to stretches of highway, greenery, and smaller towns, giving a quiet sense of how diverse Malaysia feels beyond its capital.

The bus eventually arrived at the central bus station, where the energy picked up again, people moving in different directions, luggage rolling across the pavement, and drivers calling out to passengers. From there, we took a taxi into George Town, and almost immediately the atmosphere changed. The streets narrowed, the buildings felt older, and the city carried a lived-in charm.

Arriving at The George Hotel marked the end of the day’s journey. After hours on the road, stepping inside felt grounding, a moment to pause, settle in, and take our first breath of George Town, a place known for its history, culture, and character.

After checking in, we were welcomed with a refreshing cocktail, a nice touch after the long journey. We rested for a bit, then headed out while it was still early, ready to get a first feel for George Town.

Stepping onto Chulia Street, the character of the city revealed itself almost immediately.  The street is lined with mostly two-story shop houses, painted in soft pastels and deeper, weathered hues. Many of these buildings date back more than a century, and their proportions feel human and intimate compared to modern cities.

On the ground floor, life spills out onto the street, restaurants, cafés, small shops, and open-front businesses, while the upper floors remain quieter, often with shuttered windows or wooden doors.

These classic shop houses design reflects George Town’s trading past, where people lived upstairs and worked below.

What stands out most are the drawings: graceful covered walkways running along the fronts of the buildings. Supported by columns and framed by arches, they create a rhythmic pattern as we walked through. The floors are worn smooth from generations of footsteps, and the arches cast soft shadows as daylight fades. These arcades not only add beauty but also provide shelter from sun and rain, making walking through the area feel slow, shaded, and timeless.

Walking along Clarke Street, the atmosphere feels quieter and more residential, yet still deeply tied to George Town’s layered history.

This white building with brown window trim stands out for its simplicity and elegance. Its pale façade reflects the tropical light, while the darker trim frames the windows neatly, giving it a calm, almost colonial-era feel. Like many buildings in this part of town, it carries a sense of age without feeling neglected, solid, practical, and dignified, shaped more by function than ornament.

Nearby, our attention is pulled in a completely different direction by the cartoon-style mural signed “Tantung Life.”

“Tantung Life” murals are known for telling everyday Penang stories, small human moments drawn from memory, tradition, and street life. This one hints at old customs, relationships, and quiet gestures, contrasting beautifully with the historic architecture around it. Together, the building and the mural capture what makes George Town special: heritage and contemporary creativity coexisting on the same street, inviting you to slow down and really look.

On Argyll Road, the scene feels more lived-in and less polished, showing a quieter side of George Town. The walkway with the yellow wall immediately catches my eye, not because it’s perfect, but because it tells a story. The paint is faded and streaked with black mold, a common sight in Penang’s humid, tropical climate. Here, time and weather leave visible marks, and nothing feels overly restored or staged.

Behind the wall, you can glimpse rows of residential houses, closely packed together. These are everyday homes, simple, functional, and private, where daily life continues away from the tourist routes. Laundry lines, small windows, and modest doors hint at routines that haven’t changed much over the years.

Walking past this stretch, there’s a strong sense of contrast. Just a few streets away are murals, cafés, and historic landmarks, yet here the city feels quiet and personal, almost hidden.

More arcades and then in the distance a modern building, next to traditional houses.

We passed by the St. John's Anglican Church

As we walked on, the tall building named KOMTAR began to rise above the low shop houses, its modern height standing in sharp contrast to George Town’s mostly two- and three-story streets. The tower feels like a constant landmark here, always appearing above rooftops, quietly reminding you of the city’s contemporary side as you move through its historic core.

Soon after, we arrived at Ivy’s Nona Cuisine, a well-known spot that has earned recognition in the Michelin Guide for its dedication to traditional Peranakan cooking.

The restaurant itself feels modest and unpretentious, much like many local favorites in Penang. There’s no attempt to be flashy, the focus is clearly on the food.

When we got to the restaurant we were one of the first few customers.

Looking at the menu, the simplicity immediately stands out. With just six dishes in total, including dessert, Ivy’s Nyonya Cuisine makes it clear that this is not about endless choices, but about doing a few things extremely well. Each dish feels intentional, carefully selected to represent the heart of Peranakan cooking rather than a broad, diluted menu.

Adding a surprising modern twist to the experience is the robot that brings out the food. Watching it glide through the dining room with your dishes feels almost playful, a contrast to the heritage recipes being served. It’s a small but memorable detail, old family flavors delivered by new technology—perfectly capturing the spirit of Penang, where tradition and modern life coexist side by side.

Ivy’s is celebrated for serving authentic Nyonya (Peranakan) dishes, a cuisine that blends Chinese cooking techniques with Malay spices and ingredients. Many recipes here are said to come from family traditions, emphasizing slow cooking, carefully balanced flavors, and labor-intensive methods. Dishes are often rich with aromatics like lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, and coconut milk, creating layers of flavor that feel both comforting and complex.

This fish dish called Nyonya Asam Pedas Fish served in the aluminum bowl is a true highlight and very much a specialty of Penang and Nyonya cuisine.  The aluminum bowl is traditional, it helps retain heat and keeps the curry gently simmering when it arrives at the table. Inside, the fish sits in a vibrant, aromatic curry that’s thinner than Indian curry but deeply flavorful. The broth is usually tangy and slightly spicy, built on a base of chili, shallots, garlic, lemongrass, turmeric, and belacan (fermented shrimp paste), with tamarind providing that signature sour note Penang dishes are known for.

This restaurant has a feeling that you are eating in someone's home.  It is very inviting and also very relaxing.

All the desserts for us to pick from this basket.

We ended picking these two. 

Awards hanging on the wall.

Afterwards, we walked back to our hotel.  The town is really quiet at night time.

We slowly walked back toward your hotel, letting the evening settle in. Passing by Campbell Street Mall, the mood shifted again. The gate at the entrance, decorated with strings of colorful lights hanging across the street, created a festive, almost celebratory atmosphere. The lights floated overhead like a canopy, softening the street and drawing people in, even as the night grew darker.

In the distance, KOMTAR appeared once more, rising above the rooftops like a familiar marker. From here, it felt less imposing and more reassuring—a constant point of reference as you navigated the maze of historic streets. Seeing it framed by colorful lights and low-rise buildings captured a recurring theme of George Town: heritage streets illuminated by modern life, all coexisting in one walk back to rest.

 Campbell Street has long been one of George Town’s lively commercial streets, and in the evening it feels especially inviting. The glow from the lights reflects off shop fronts and pavement, blending modern touches with the older shop house architecture that lines the street.

Back at The George Hotel, the building feels transformed at night. Soft, warm lighting washes over the façade, illuminating the rows of columns and giving the hotel a stately, almost theatrical presence. The columns cast long, gentle shadows, emphasizing the symmetry and elegance of the architecture.

NEXT... Day 5- George Town