7 days in Malaysia- 6/16- 6/21/2024

Day 5 -Dinner at Indigo,The Blue Mansion-6/19/2024

In the evening, heading to dinner at Indigo feels special even before you sit down, because it’s located inside one of Penang’s most iconic buildings: Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, famously known as the Blue Mansion. After Cheong Fatt Tze passed away in 1916, the Blue Mansion gradually went through a long period of decline. His descendants continued to occupy parts of it, but over the decades the house was subdivided, poorly maintained, and eventually fell into serious disrepair. By the late 20th century, it was close to being lost altogether.  In the 1990s, the mansion was rescued by a group of Penang-based conservationists and heritage advocates who recognized its historical and architectural importance. They undertook a major restoration, carefully returning the building to its original form using traditional materials and techniques. The famous blue lime wash was recreated, and original details, courtyards, timber screens, tiles, and stained glass were preserved or restored. Today, the Blue Mansion is privately owned and operates as a heritage property rather than a private residence.

Entering through the main gate of the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion already feels ceremonial. The gate frames the experience, separating the busy street outside from a quieter, more refined world within.

Walking through the main gate. There is a panel telling the story of Cheong Fatt Tze, who was once regarded as the richest man in Malaya, with a reputed net worth of 80 million taels worth of silver (equivalent to approximately $2.4 billion today), which brought him the moniker "the Rockefeller of China". He died in Batavia from pneumonia.

As we stepped inside, the noise fades, and the space immediately opens up into the central courtyard. The mansion immediately stands out with its deep indigo-blue walls, a color made from traditional lime wash mixed with natural blue dye. Under the evening light, the blue feels rich and dramatic, almost glowing. Built in the late 19th century, the mansion once belonged to Cheong Fatt Tze, a powerful Chinese merchant and diplomat whose influence stretched across Southeast Asia. The house reflects his status, grand, confident, and cosmopolitan.

Near the entrance, a wooden cart and a red bicycle sit quietly, simple objects that add warmth and character to the scene. Against the blue walls, the red bicycle pops with color, feeling almost like a playful accent in an otherwise stately setting. These everyday items soften the grandeur of the mansion, reminding you that this was once a lived-in home, not just a historic monument.

Architecturally, the mansion is fascinating because it blends Southern Chinese design with Western and colonial influences.

Inside the mansion, the first space feels like a formal living room, designed to impress and to host. A round table sits at the center, anchoring the room, while classic Chinese chairs line the walls in a balanced, orderly arrangement. Overhead, a chandelier adds a Western touch, its soft light reflecting off polished surfaces.

One wall stands out in particular, intricately decorated with gold Chinese reliefs, rich with symbols of prosperity and good fortune. The room perfectly captures the mansion’s character: Chinese tradition layered with colonial elegance.

From there, we stepped into the courtyard, which feels like the heart of the house. Open to the sky, it brings in natural light and fresh air, creating a calm contrast to the richly decorated interior rooms.

The open space, and balconies frame the courtyard on multiple levels. This design follows traditional Chinese principles, where courtyards create balance, encourage airflow, and serve as a shared family space. Standing there, you can sense how the mansion was designed to breathe, cool, shaded, and serene despite the tropical climate.

After lingering for a moment, we made your way up to the second floor.

From above, the courtyard reveals a new perspective, the symmetry becomes clearer, and the interplay of light and shadow across the blue walls feels even more striking. The upper level carries a quieter, more intimate atmosphere, offering a glimpse into how this grand house once functioned not just as a showpiece, but as a refined and thoughtfully designed home.

As we approached Indigo, the entrance itself already feels refined and symbolic.

The gate is decorated with what look like three gold fans, an elegant motif that immediately catches the eye.

 Fans in Chinese culture often represent grace, status, and welcome, and here they feel like a quiet gesture of hospitality, inviting you into a space that is both historic and carefully curated. Set against the blue tones of the mansion, the gold details feel warm and celebratory.

Stepping inside the restaurant, the space opens up dramatically with a large dining room with a tall ceiling, and the sense of height gives the room a calm, almost ceremonial grandeur. Light filters through stained glass windows filled with blue and green motifs, echoing the mansion’s signature color palette. The colors soften the room, casting a gentle glow that feels both intimate and elegant.

At the center of the room stands a huge decorative vase, acting almost like a focal point around which the space quietly revolves. It grounds the room, balancing the openness of the ceiling above. Around it, gorgeous lamps hang and glow warmly, their design adding layers of texture and sophistication without overwhelming the historic setting.

Around it, gorgeous lamps hang and glow warmly, their design adding layers of texture and sophistication without overwhelming the historic setting.

The room feels exceptionally elegant, almost ceremonial in its calm and balance. Before it became part of Indigo, this room was not a dining space. Historically, it functioned as a formal reception and ceremonial hall within the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion. This was where the owner received important guests, business partners, and dignitaries, a space designed to impress and to reflect wealth, influence, and cosmopolitan taste. The grandeur of the room signaled status, while the stained glass, imported materials, and high ceiling showed an openness to Western design alongside Chinese traditions.

View of the Dinning room from our table.

We selected the 5 course Chef's Menu at RM298 (about $75/per person) not including wine.

Table set up.

Cheers!

First course: Marinated Ikura with cold Capellini, Japanese Kelp, Ikura, chives, sesame seed, dashi foam, micro herbs

The meal begins lightly and delicately. Briny marinated ikura rests over strands of cold capellini, creating a silky, refreshing base. Notes of the sea come through the Japanese kelp and dashi foam, while chives, sesame seeds, and micro herbs add freshness and subtle texture. It’s clean, balanced, and quietly complex, an elegant opening that awakens the palate.

Course 2: Hokkaido scallop & Cuttlefish, chitose tomatoes, garlic crumbs, peat shoots, tobiko vinaigrette.

This course highlights purity and contrast. Sweet, tender Hokkaido scallop pairs beautifully with seared cuttlefish, complemented by chitose tomatoes that add gentle acidity. Garlic crumbs bring warmth and crunch, while pea shoots and a bright tobiko vinaigrette lift the dish with freshness and a subtle pop of brine.

Course 3: Seared Duck Foie gras, sweet corn relish, cashew nut puree, bahara dust, pomegranate reduction.

Rich and indulgent, the seared duck foie gras is luxuriously smooth, balanced thoughtfully by a sweet corn relish. The cashew nut purée adds creaminess, while baharat dust introduces warm spice. A drizzle of pomegranate reduction cuts through the richness with tart sweetness, creating a beautifully layered bite.

Course 4: New Zealand Premium Lamb Loin, edamame, mint, sugar peas, feta, pickled garlic, balsamic glaze, maple syrup.

The lamb loin is perfectly cooked, tender, juicy, and full of flavor. It’s paired with vibrant accents of edamame, mint, and sugar peas, bringing freshness and color to the plate. Feta adds a salty contrast, while pickled garlic, balsamic glaze, and a hint of maple syrup create depth, balancing savory, sweet, and tangy notes.

Course 5: 70% Guanaja Chocolate & pecan tart, Valrhona cremeux, pecan frangipane, raspberry sorbet .

The finale is rich yet refined. The 70% Guanaja chocolate delivers deep cocoa intensity, softened by silky Valrhona crèmeux. Pecan frangipane adds nutty warmth, while the raspberry sorbet introduces a bright, refreshing finish. It’s indulgent without being heavy, a thoughtful and satisfying end to the meal.

Together, the five courses feel cohesive and intentional, each dish carefully layered, balanced, and elegant, perfectly matching the historic grandeur and refined atmosphere of dining inside the Blue Mansion.

We are now leaving the Mansion. 

As we stepped out into the night, the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion reveals a completely different kind of beauty. The blue façade, now softly illuminated, feels deeper and more dramatic, the color absorbing the light and giving the building a calm, almost cinematic presence. Every arch, window, and balcony stands out in quiet elegance, and the mansion feels less like a museum and more like a living memory glowing in the dark.

Moving toward the outer gate.

The decorative gate, ornate yet restrained, frames the mansion beautifully from the outside. Beyond it, the modern world waits, but inside the gate, time feels slowed. The contrast between the softly lit heritage building and the darker street beyond makes the moment feel like a quiet farewell.

NEXT... Day 6- Thai Buddhish Temple