6 days in Malaysia- 6/16- 6/21/2024

Day 3 -Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur-6/17/2024

This morning’s visit to the Batu Caves feels like stepping into one of Malaysia’s most dramatic and meaningful cultural landscapes. Batu Caves are over 400 million years old, formed naturally from limestone. They became a religious site in the late 19th century, when Tamil Hindu settlers dedicated the caves to Lord Murugan. Since then, the site has grown into one of the most important Hindu pilgrimage destinations outside India. Every year, Batu Caves are at the center of Thaipusam, a major Hindu festival that draws hundreds of thousands of devotees. During this time, the area becomes intensely crowded, spiritual, and emotional, with acts of devotion taking place throughout the caves and surrounding grounds.

As we arrived, the first thing that catches your eye is the large, colorful entrance gate, marking the transition from the city into a sacred space.

As you walked in the gate there is lively, open and wide courtyard with people gathering, praying, and preparing for the climb ahead.

Straight in front stands the most striking landmark of Batu Caves: the enormous gold statue of Lord Murugan. Towering over the courtyard, it is one of the tallest Murugan statues in the world. Lord Murugan is a major deity in Hinduism, especially revered by the Tamil community. The statue’s gleaming gold surface reflects the sunlight, making it feel powerful and almost otherworldly. At its feet begin the famous steep, brightly colored staircase, rising sharply toward the dark opening of the cave high up in the limestone cliff.

To the left of the courtyard, there is a very colorful temple area where people remove their shoes before entering. 

This is the Sri Subramaniar Swamy Temple, an active Hindu temple at ground level. The bright statues, painted pillars, and offerings create a vibrant, devotional atmosphere.

 Shoe removal here is a sign of respect and purity, marking the transition from the everyday world into a sacred one.

In the courtyard, the large number of pigeons is very normal for Batu Caves because people feed them, either intentionally as part of a religious gesture or simply out of habit. Over time, the pigeons have become comfortable around visitors, especially in open sacred spaces like this where food offerings are common. The constant activity, wide open area, and regular feeding have made the courtyard a natural gathering place for them.

We are heading toward the stairs.

These colorful steps, now painted in vivid shades lead to the Temple Cave, the main cavern inside the mountain. Climbing them is both a physical and spiritual journey, symbolizing devotion and perseverance. At the top, the cave opens into a vast natural chamber where temples and shrines sit beneath a ceiling pierced by skylights, letting beams of sunlight stream down from above.

Standing there between the golden statue, the rainbow-colored stairs, the dark cave entrance, and the lively temple below, you can feel the unique blend of natural wonder, spiritual devotion, and cultural identity. Batu Caves isn’t just something to see; it’s something you experience with all your senses.

 We are now climbing the stairs.  I came prepared as you have to cover your knees to get in the cave.

The scene changed again with the appearance of the monkeys. These are long-tailed macaques, and Batu Caves is one of their most well-known hangouts. People often give them food, even though it’s discouraged, which is why the monkeys are so bold and curious. They’ve learned to associate humans with snacks and will sometimes approach closely, or even try to grab bags or bottles, adding a bit of unpredictability to the climb.

 There are 272 steps leading up to the Temple Cave. The staircase is steep, and with the heat, crowds, and monkeys, it becomes both a physical and sensory experience. Many people pause along the way, not just to catch their breath, but to take in the view.

As I was going up, I looked down and this is what I see.

We are now half way up, and stopping behind the golden statue of Lord Murugan and looking down is especially impressive. From that vantage point, the courtyard opens wide below, with people, pigeons, and temples appearing almost miniature.

The pause on the stairs, halfway between the ground and the cave, feels like a transition point: the busy world below, the sacred space above, and you right in between.

The statue feels even more massive from behind, and the colorful steps stretching downward emphasize just how high we already climbed.  We also saw a monkey snacking on a banana just below us.  I tried not to interact with them and they are very unpredictable.

As we climbed the last stretch of stairs, the entrance of the cave comes fully into view, and it feels both dramatic and humbling.

From the outside, the opening is tall and dark, cut sharply into the face of the limestone cliff. It looks almost like a giant mouth in the mountain, wide enough to swallow the noise and color of the world below. From this angle, the bright staircase and golden statue fall away, replaced by stone, shadow, and cool air.

The mountain itself is striking. The limestone walls rise almost vertically, their surfaces rough and weathered, marked by deep grooves, cracks, and streaks formed over millions of years. Patches of greenery cling to the rock, small trees and plants growing out of crevices high above, showing how life finds a way even on sheer stone.

The scale of the cliff makes you feel small, as if the mountain is quietly watching over everyone who approaches.

View from the top of the entrance of the cave.

Entering the Caves.

NEXT... Day 3- Inside the Batu Caves