3 weeks in Bali, Indonesia- 5/28- 6/15/2024

Day 3- Melasti Beach/Kecak  Fire Dance-5/29/2024

Melasti Beach, located at the southern tip of Bali in Uluwatu, known for its dramatic limestone cliffs, winding coastal road, and soft white sand.  Melasti Beach has become a newer coastal venue for the Kecak Fire Dance, traditionally associated with the cliffs of Uluwatu Temple.

Our tour guide parked in the parking lot, right at the base of towering rocky cliffs that almost feel like we are walking beside a carved‐out mountain, this road was actually cut through the limestone to give access to the beach.

The setting feels secluded and grand, with turquoise water, wide stretches of beach, and scenic spots for watching the sunset.

From the Parking lot, we are headed toward the beach by climbing a few steps.

View of the beach as we walked up the stairs.

Along the entrance and beachfront area, the iconic three traditional Balinese split gates (Candi Bentar).

These gates are built from carved stone in classic Balinese temple style and aligned facing the ocean. They serve as striking photo spots and symbolic entrances, representing a gateway between the physical world and the spiritual realm. During sunset, the gates frame the sky perfectly, with the cliffs rising behind them.

I love this picture of a group of Muslim ladies sitting and waiting for the sun to set across the ocean.

Melasti Beach has a wide open shoreline lined with smooth sand and scattered rock formations, but what stands out most at sunset is how the whole beach turns into a gathering place.

There’s a long beachfront walkway where people sit along the edges, waiting for the sun to drop into the horizon, some perched on the stone ledges, others on towels or directly on the sand. It feels communal and relaxed, everyone facing the same direction as the sky starts shifting from gold to deep orange.

Out toward the edge of the coastline, there’s a rocky promontory that juts out into the water. On top of it sits what looks like a small pavilion or hut, likely a viewpoint or lookout spot.

Along the water sits a large wooden boat, docked close enough to draw attention but still blending into the coastal setting. Its size and rustic design give the beach a traditional, almost maritime character, as if it’s been part of local life for a long time, whether for fishing, ceremonial use, or tourism. The boat adds a striking focal point against the smooth curve of the shoreline.

From where you’re standing, the shoreline opens into what feels like a natural cove, the beach curves gently, framed by rocky promontories on both the left and right. Each cliff rises sharply from the water, giving the beach a sheltered, almost amphitheater-like feeling. When you capture it in a panoramic view, the land seems to wrap around the ocean, creating a sense of enclosure and protection from the open sea

Meanwhile, the walkway is full of people waiting for the sunset, sitting casually along the edges, chatting, taking pictures, or simply watching the horizon. With the sea stretching forward, the whole scene feels relaxed.

As the light slowly fades, the cove, cliffs, boat, and gathering crowd all become part of that same moment: a quiet pause at the end of the day, framed between land and sea.

Kecak  Fire Dance

 As the performance begins, the sky is still washed in warm colors, orange and rose fading into soft purples over the ocean. The cliffs surrounding Melasti Beach glow with the last light of day, and the waves below shimmer in silver as the sun slips past the horizon.

 The performance takes place outdoors near the beach, making the ocean and sunset part of the backdrop.

Open sitting.  We came early enough so we get to pick the best seats.

As the performance begins, a large group of male dancers walks onto the circular stage, moving in a steady rhythm as they take their places.

They’re dressed in traditional checkered black-white-red sarongs. the pattern is poleng, a symbol in Balinese culture representing the balance between opposing forces (light and dark, good and evil). All of the men are bare-chested, adorned simply to keep the focus on movement and voice.

As the sun goes down, the rhythmic chanting begins “cak, cak, cak” performed by a circle of male dancers without instruments, creating a powerful percussive chorus.

Once they settle into a wide circle, they lower their bodies to sit cross-legged on the ground, forming the core of the performance space. A few stand along the outer ring, ready to lead the tempo and choreography.

The show retells scenes from the Ramayana, featuring characters like Rama, Sita, the monkey god Hanuman, and the fiery battle between good and evil. The combination of chanting, costumes, torches, and the glow of sunset adds a dramatic atmosphere, different from the temple cliff setting but equally magical.

As the chanting intensifies, the story unfolds on stage. The prince, Rama, and the monkey warrior Hanuman leap into action, moving swiftly across the circle as they battle their foes. Their movements are sharp and theatrical, with exaggerated gestures that echo traditional Balinese dance..

Soon the energy shifts, a group of women enters gracefully, their hands curved and fingers extended in classic Balinese style. Their dance softens the atmosphere, adding elegance and contrast to the earlier combat scene.

By the time night fully arrives, the world beyond the stage is almost completely dark. The dancers remain at the center of it all, now lit only by torches and spotlights that cast deep shadows across their faces and highlight every hand gesture, every movement of the checkered sarongs. The stage becomes its own island of light, a glowing circle surrounded by darkness and ocean, making the chanting feel even more immersive and ancient.

The circle tightens, and torches are brought closer. The dancers scatter burning husks across the stage, creating a ring of fire that crackles and glows. Flames rise around Hanuman, symbolizing the scene where he sets Lanka ablaze.

In a bold display, performers extinguish the embers using their bare feet, kicking and stomping through sparks until the light fades.

As the crowd watches, a group of men lifts Hanuman onto their shoulders, celebrating his triumph and strength.

The scene becomes powerful and ceremonial, with voices rising once again in layered chants.

The chanting becomes softer, more hypnotic, as the story moves toward resolution.

The mood turns reverent as the dancers surround Rama, bowing deeply with hands raised toward him, acknowledging his divine and royal role.

Finally, in the closing moment, Hanuman leaps into the air, a dramatic final gesture of victory.

The stage calms, the fires dim, and Rama and Sita stand together once more, reunited after the trials of the story, an image of harmony restored.

Happy ending!

The contrast is striking: earlier we were watching a sunset by the sea; now we are watching myth and fire unfold in what feels like a sacred space carved out of night. The transition from daylight to darkness transforms the performance from scenic and beautiful to mysterious and theatrical, as if the story truly comes alive only once the world around it disappears.

NEXT... Pura Petitenget Temple