4 days in Laos-1/30- 2/3/2025

Day 1-Vientiane -1/30/2025

Today was our first full day back in Vientiane, the city where we were both born before leaving more than 40 years ago. This is our second visit back, but this time feels even more special because tomorrow we'll be reunited with Kevin and Kristie as they join us for the next part of our journey. With a free day to ourselves, we decided to slow down and simply wander through the city, taking in the familiar sights at a relaxed pace.

Our first stop was That Dam, also known as the Black Stupa. Unlike the glittering gold stupas found throughout Laos, That Dam is covered in dark moss and weathered brick, giving it a mysterious and timeless appearance. It is believed to have been built in the 16th century during the reign of King Setthathirath to enshrine sacred Buddhist relics. According to local legend, the stupa was once protected by a seven-headed Naga, a mythical serpent said to have defended Vientiane from invaders.

Although much of its original gold covering was reportedly stripped away during the Siamese invasion of Vientiane in 1828, That Dam remains one of the city's most cherished landmarks. Standing quietly in the middle of a traffic circle, surrounded by trees and modern buildings, it serves as a reminder of Vientiane's long history and resilience. For us, it was the perfect place to begin our day, walking through the city where our own story first began.

The area around That Dam has changed so much since we last lived here. The streets are now clean, beautifully maintained, and lined with cafés, boutiques, and upscale shops. While the city has modernized, That Dam still stands quietly at its center, connecting the old Vientiane with the new.

From there, we walked toward downtown, retracing streets that brought back so many childhood memories. One place we especially wanted to see was the Saleum Vieng movie theater, where we used to watch movies as kids. The theater is gone now, but the building is still standing. Today, it houses a Mini C, convenience store.

Walking along these streets was like stepping through time. During the 1960s and 1970s, this was the commercial and social heart of Vientiane. The area was lined with movie theaters, cafés, bakeries, restaurants, and family-owned shops. It was where families came to shop, teenagers gathered to meet friends, and people enjoyed the latest films or simply spent an evening strolling through the city. For many who grew up in Vientiane during that era, these streets hold countless memories. Although many of the old businesses have disappeared, walking here brought back a flood of nostalgia and reminded us of what this city was like when we called it home more than 40 years ago.

As we were walking toward the fountain se saw 3 ladies dressed in traditional Lao outfit.

They were kind enough to let us take a picture of them. They were on their way to work.

From there, we continued to Nam Phou, which literally means "fountain" in Lao. The entire Nam Phou area has changed dramatically. In the 1960s and 1970s, it was already a lively gathering place, surrounded by shops and cafés where people met friends, relaxed, and enjoyed the slower pace of life. Today, the neighborhood has become one of the city's most vibrant districts, with stylish cafés, restaurants, hotels, and outdoor terraces surrounding the fountain. Despite all the modern development, standing here still felt familiar. It was easy to imagine the Nam Phou we remembered from our childhood, making this stop one of the most nostalgic moments of our walk

The fountain has long been one of Vientiane's best-known landmarks and a popular meeting place for both locals and visitors. Although it has been renovated over the years, it still serves as the heart of the surrounding neighborhood.

Standing here brought back another wave of memories. The tall building overlooking the fountain is still standing today. Years ago, it housed the French Cultural Association (Alliance Française), where we used to come to watch French films and attend cultural events. It was one of the few places in Vientiane where people could experience French cinema, reflecting the strong French influence that remained in Laos after the colonial period.

Looking across the street, another childhood memory came rushing back. This was where Casa Lao (the building with clock tower) once stood, one of Vientiane's most popular bookstores. As kids, we spent so much time there browsing through books and magazines. It was one of those special places where you could easily lose track of time, and for many families growing up in Vientiane, it was a favorite stop in the city. The building is still standing today, although it now houses a different business. Seeing the familiar building brought back so many memories, even if the bookstore itself is long gone.

After reminiscing for a while, we stopped at a small café nearby and ordered fresh ginger tea.

It was one of the best cups of ginger tea we've ever had, fragrant, spicy, and wonderfully refreshing. Sitting there, looking out over Nam Phou and the surrounding streets, gave us a chance to slow down and reflect. This wasn't just another sightseeing stop; it felt like we were reconnecting with a place that had been such an important part of our childhood.

We continued wandering through downtown Vientiane, where old and new seemed to blend together at every corner. One intersection was anchored by a large Hard Rock Cafe, a reminder of how much the city has changed over the years. But what really caught my attention was looking up at the massive bundle of electric cables hanging overhead.

The tangled wires stretched in every direction, looking almost like a giant Spider-Man web. It was one of those scenes you see in many Southeast Asian cities, chaotic, fascinating, and somehow all functioning perfectly.

A little farther along, we stopped at Fruit Heaven for a well-deserved treat.

Counter at the entrance where they take your order.

We ordered their famous mango sticky rice along with a fresh coconut.

The mango was incredibly sweet and juicy, perfectly paired with the warm, slightly salty coconut sticky rice. Sipping fresh coconut juice while enjoying one of our favorite Southeast Asian desserts was the perfect way to cool off before continuing our walk through the streets of Vientiane.

After our walk around the city, we returned to the Crowne Plaza Vientiane. Looking out from our room, the swimming pool below looked so inviting that we decided to head downstairs for a closer look.

The pool is one of the hotel's highlights. Surrounded by tropical landscaping, palm trees, and comfortable lounge chairs, it feels like a peaceful oasis in the middle of the city.

The water has a beautiful blue color, and the spacious deck provides plenty of room to relax in the sun or find a shady spot under an umbrella.

With the modern hotel rising above it and lush greenery all around, it was hard to believe we were just minutes from downtown. After walking and reminiscing, it was the perfect place to unwind and recharge before another exciting day in Vientiane with Kevin and Kristie arriving tomorrow.

Hoa decided to go for a swim in the pool

Dinner at Kualao

That evening, we headed to Kualao Restaurant, one of Vientiane's best-known restaurants for traditional Lao cuisine.

From the outside, it looked more like a beautiful Lao home than a restaurant, with its elegant architecture and welcoming entrance.

Since opening in the 1990s, Kualao has earned a reputation for showcasing authentic Lao food and culture, and it has become a favorite for both visitors and locals celebrating special occasions.

As we stepped inside, we entered a spacious reception area with a stylish bar on the left, where we relaxed for a few minutes before being shown to our table.

We were then led into a large dining room at the back, and the atmosphere was incredible.

The room was filled with diners, creating a lively energy, while a stage at the front featured performers in beautiful traditional Lao costumes dancing gracefully to classic Lao music. The elegant setting, cultural performances, and warm hospitality made it feel like much more than dinner, it was a celebration of Lao culture.

The menu celebrated some of the best-known flavors of Laos, and we couldn't wait to dig in.

Here are all the dishes we ordered.

One of my favorite dishes was Nem Khao, a crispy rice salad that combines crunchy fried rice, slices of fermented pork sausage or ham, fresh herbs, scallions, peanuts, and lime. Every bite was full of contrasting textures and bright flavors. It's one of those uniquely Lao dishes that I always look forward to whenever I visit.

We started with a spicy papaya salad (tam mak hoong), made with shredded green papaya, tomatoes, chilies, garlic, lime, and fish sauce. It was fresh, crunchy, and packed with the bold sweet, sour, salty, and spicy flavors that Lao cuisine is famous for.

Alongside it came purple wild sticky rice, served the traditional way in a woven bamboo container. The rice had a beautiful deep purple color, a slightly nutty flavor, and a wonderfully chewy texture. In Laos, sticky rice is more than just a side dish, it's the centerpiece of almost every meal, eaten by hand and shared with family and friends.

We also ordered Lao sausage (sai oua), seasoned with fragrant herbs, garlic, lemongrass, and spices before being grilled until lightly charred. Juicy and full of flavor, it paired perfectly with the sticky rice and the fresh herbs served alongside it.

To complete the meal, Hoa ordered an ice-cold Beerlao, the country's iconic national beer and a perfect match for the bold flavors of Lao cuisine. As we enjoyed the papaya salad, purple sticky rice, Nem Khao, and Lao sausage while watching the traditional dancers perform, it felt like the perfect welcome back to the city where our lives began. It was a wonderful first meal in Vientiane, simple, authentic, and full of the flavors we had grown up with. Sharing good food, Lao music, and warm hospitality made for a memorable start to our visit home.

NEXT... Day 2-Patuxuai