7 days in Puglia, Italy - 09/16/2023-9/22/2023

Day 3- Matera -9/18/2023

In the 50s Matera was called the Shame of Italy with some 150,000 people, mostly peasants and farmers were living in grottos carved out of lime stones.   Without ventilation, running water, or electricity, malaria, cholera and typhoid, was rampant. Bed space was scarce, with children squeezed with their parents into bunks that were deliberately built with space beneath for chickens. Coveted animals were kept indoors in case they were stolen. Large families would gather around a small table once a day to share a simple meal of bread with pasta.

All of that changed after Carlo Levi, a writer wrote about the appalling condition in Matera that the Italian authorities were forced to stop ignoring the issue and relocated the residents to a nearby rural development.  Matera became a UNESCO World heritage in 1993 as most outstanding, intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean region. It also has been designated a European Cultural Capital for 2019 and will host cultural events expected to draw thousands of visitors.

Piazza Vittorio Veneto is considered to be the center of the city and from here you can start the walk toward the Citta dei Sassi (city of stones).

Over looking the Piazza is the historic Palazzo dell'Annunziata, the church of San Domenico, and the prefecture of Matera.

The piazza is huge.

On the left where you see the metal fence is the Palombaro lungo which is an enormous cistern underground the city.

This is the entrance to the underground tank.  We will came back later to visit it.

This is called the Circle of life by Italian Andrea Roggi.  Really beautiful artwork.

His work is on display all over Matera.

The Sassi are made up of two large districts: Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso, divided in the center by the Civita hill, the oldest settlement in the Matera area, the heart of medieval urbanization.

The Civita was once the only true city, while the Sassi were outside the city walls. Nowadays, the majority of the Sassi are used as hotels, restaurants and shops for tourists.

This area is called La Civita

A nice little coffee shop with tables on the open air and with a great view.

Matera is a succession of stairs going up and down and some are quite slippery so good walking shoes are a must.

The church of San Giovanni Battista is one of the most important churches in Matera and is dedicated to John the Baptist.

The church dates from the 13th and the architecture of the church is mainly Romanesque but there are influences of various styles such as Arabic in the portals, Gothic in the arches and Greek in its cross plan.

The portal is adorned with columns and animal sculptures.  A work of tufa representing St. John the Baptist occupies the niche under the rose window.

 The interior has 3 naves separated by 8 pillars surmounted by capitals with a vaulted ceiling in the center nave

The crucifixion of Christ in the center nave.

Painting on the left and view of the vaulted ceiling inside the church.

Rose window letting light inside the church.

Sculpture of John the Baptist holding a cross.

Panoramic view of the church with the South facade opening onto Piazza San Giovanni Battista. 

Piazza S. Giovanni Battista. I was told that filming took place on this piazza for the James Bond film "No time to die" with  (2021)

We are now headed to Matera Cathedral which you can see it in the distance with the pointy top.

Rooftops.

Walking by many cobbled stone street...

Panoramic view

Matera Cathedral is still a long way from where we are.

To get there we had to go all the way to the bottom and then climb up to the top.

Small alleys...

We are going down...

Still a way to get all the way down...

We are almost at the bottom...

We are now at the bottom of the city.

View of the city from below.

They did a wonderful job cleaning up the city and renovating all the existing houses.

Finding our way to get to the top.

Stairs going up.

We are half way to the summit

Beautiful view from above.

More stairs to the summit.

On the left is the Matera Cathedral view from across, you can see the balcony in front of the cathedral with people standing.

On the right is the view from the balcony in front of the cathedral over looking at la Civita below.

We have reach the summit, looking down at the historic city below.

Gorgeous view of the historic city.

Stanidng on the balcony in front of the Cathedral.

We are now headed to Matera Cathedral which you can definitely see above.

We are now in front of the Matera Cathedral with the  Circle of life by Italian Andrea Roggi.  This one is a little different from the 1st one we saw earlier.

NEXT... Matera Cathedral